Why sustainable living? To sustain means to endure. It’s no secret that the systems that support modern human lifestyles are generally not sustainable, relying on the overuse of limited resources without sufficient consideration to their renewal. In a sustainable system, such as a natural ecosystem, each element within that system supports other elements, so that the system as a whole, whilst constantly changing, also replenishes itself in perpetuity.

The challenge for modern humans is to design OUR support systems to emulate these principles to ensure that we protect the future viability of those elements that are essential for our collective survival, such as clean water & air, healthy soils and natural genetic diversity.

Why the need for change? Although it is desirable that every one & every being be unique, when any element becomes disproportionate or out of balance, the integrity of the whole is threatened and it would seem human activities have created just such a situation today. Survival is part of our natural programming  (perhaps because our individual survival is primary programming, the individual ego has developed). However, when separate egos (& the collective anthropocentric ego) take precedence, greed & disregard for other elements may result, threatening the harmony (& ultimate survival) of the whole.  There is much to do to repair the imbalances we have create. It may be however, that our individual differences are necessary & each has a part to play, each according to their interests, talents & inclinations. What is needed is for us to understand the interconnectedness of all things on earth, combine our individual talents & work together to create a harmonious whole. Diversity within Unity Consciousness.

Elements of Integrated Sustainable Living Systems
Self-Reliance- resources & materials obtained locally from naturally occurring, non-polluting & renewable resources. Management & processing by locals. (relative independence from outside sources)
Self-sustaining- all elements retained/returned to system (recycled or used to support/feed other elements/ aspects of system
Preservation & improvement of the quality of fundamental resources
Maximize diversity within the system to ensure overall viability remains strong in face of changing circumstances.
These ideas & more detailed aspects of design are explored on this site & in Permaculture books & courses. (See more Tips for sustainable choices. )

The future is no more than the consequences of today. With the wisdom of the past and the technology of tomorrow, each one of us has the opportunity of being the innovative architects of our future, and the effects of our choices create not only our personal wellbeing, but that of our children and all other life forms with which we share this precious planet. (See conscious creating)
The concept of ‘sustainability’ means different things to different people, & with most of us enculturated to a modern western lifestyle, solar hot water, more efficient light bulbs & so on are the sort of things many people think of as ‘sustainable’. The fundamentals of life, (food, water, basic shelter & the wider enviroment) are rarely given much consideration, when the reality is that everything on this round planet is connected & ALL our activites impact on everything else! The focus of zone one & this site is on the basics, those things that we must get right if we are to create an enduring abundant future. Even access to electricity & transport is unimportant if we fail to secure clean water, nutritious food & a healthy natural enviroment.


Recent Posts

grass or grain

The area where I live is rather infamous for growing a contraband herb commonly known as ‘grass’. Personally, I think the human race should working on waking up rather than medicating it’s pain. But I’m playing with the possibilities of regular grass here.

When I first started working with this plot of earth, the ground was like rock, with no worms or signs of soil life at all. Most of the region had been seeded with a particularly tough variety of pasture known as setaria grass, for beef production. It is a hardy, vigorous clumping perenial that grows a foot a week in summer, reaching a height (that falls over) of up to 2 metres if not grazed by permanent livestock. Although, thankfully, it slows growing in winter, keeping it in check without constant grazing or weekly slashing in summer is impossible. Heavy cattle grazing & yearly burning off contributed to the compacted lifeless soil condition & so not an option for me. AND I don’t have a tractor. For lack of a solution, mostly it has been allowed to simply grow for many years & inadvertently added compost & protected the soil from erosion. The result, especially after the last few wet years has been a vast improvement in soil life & condition.

However, the wet won’t last forever & long grass is a fire hazard in dry years & setaria is not the best quality grass for grazing ruminants; horses suffer calcium deficiencies & so too, most likely do other species. Grass is food for animals but a more varied diet is preferable. My plan is to intercrop with other grass & herb types by slashing in autumn when growth slows & seeding with lawn varieties & clover for nitrogen-fixing in open areas & roadways/access tracks as fire breaks. Once new pasture is established in a few months, the introduction of goats should help with maintenance over summer. I have chosen goats for their usefulness in browsing brush & weeds & have found their barn/straw droppings a bonus in the vegetable beds; their small size does much less soil compaction damage & they conveniently eat more grass in summer & more brush in winter (lantana & woody weeds abound here).lantana eating goatlings

So far, I have reclaimed perhaps an acre or two by hand digging fully grown clumps of setaria grass, laying on contour & creating garden beds with the decomposing grass, a back breaking job of many years. In fact, anywhere the grass isn’t over your head & looks like garden is the result of this work. Now I have a new method that looks unsightly for a time but far more effective- covering with old carpet or black builders plastic, leaving for months until the grass dies & directly planting into the resulting layer of mulch. Instant garden!black plastic

This piece of black plastic has been progressively rolled downhill & now the newly cleared area has been planted to linseed, a crop I tried a patch of last winter with great success. The great advantage of this method is not digging. I’ve found that as soon as one turns the earth or it is laid bare, a new nightmare begins, weed seeds that have laid dormant invariably sprout, creating more work in the cropping area.

My latest grass experiment is to try inter-cropping grain into the permanent pasture, taking advantage of the dormant winter growth of setaria to interplant wheat & oats (a winter crop in Australia).  Without tilling or disturbing the soil I have been spreading seed between the clumping grass (although the clumps are massive, they are almost a foot apart). After the harvest in spring, the permanent grass will re-grow to be grazed by the goats who will also manure & fertilize the area for the next season’s winter grain. That’s the cunning plan!

Here’s the progress so far: first, cut the grass! Easier said than done- this stuff is like rope & has been un-cut for years, resulting in tangled masses that only the toughest brush-cutter, time & gritted teeth can conquer. Fortunately, I have the machine, although it took 5 tanks of petrol to clear the first 10m2! before rakingThe pic at right is after the first cut before raking the mulch for the vege gardens. Did I say raking? Yeah right- no rake can get through it. Human tractor picks up with bare hands.

Next, after clearing bulk of mulch, leave to re-sprout one week & cut again.big clumps This picture will give you an idea of the monster grass I’m dealing with here. Next to the boot is ONE clump before the second cut. Grass is cut in the forth lunar quarter on the waning moon; hopefully it’ll stop growing. Hopefully (now late April).

Now for the fun part. There is is still a good layer of mulch on the ground between the clumps. I don’t want to expose the soil or dig but take advantage of the very wet soil & use the mulch to cover,but the seeds do need soil contact. Human tractor gets low & dirty. Hands & knees, hand fork in one hand, rake surface mulch towards self, sprinkle seed, rake next section over first, one foot by one foot, across contour. 12m2of wheat sown in first lunar quarter (sow leafy greens).         IMAG0040 Left: soil bared for seeds before raking mulch over to clear next section.

Ok, so this is madness, you may think. Why would I bother? This isn’t even a grain-growing area. Sub-tropical, mountainous ex-rainforest. Tell that to the traditional Asian populations of the world. AND I don’t have a tractor! AND I don’t want to turn the soil, slowly returning to fertility after years of slashing, burning & over-grazing. Why even grow grain? Because I eat it! Because I’m not trying to make money & grow large areas. Because I have inadvertantly realized a tractor would have compacted this super saturated soil (one has time to think & observe when on hands & knees tending the earth). Will wheat even grow here? Well it did last year! I tried a small patch (5m) of biodynamic wheat from a farm some 100km from here- the nearest I could find. It grew fine & fortunately we had a very dry spring when it was heading (a usual pattern). I saved the seed & have re-planted the small amount in the crop circle for extra care to save again. I plan to save (not eat) my seed for generations to breed a wheat variety acclimatised to my zone. Taking the time & trouble to do all this by hand is worth it to save seed, the most important thing any gardener can do in this age of multi-national take-overs of our sovereign right to food! after first cut

At left is the slashed area one week later, before sowing to wheat.sprouts 1 1/2 weeks After sowing, I cut grass to cover seeds.At right are the newly emerged seedlings another week later. Aren’t they beautiful? At the same time, I am applying the same process to an area adjacent to the ‘crop’ that I hope to keep low over summer as an access road/ fire break parallel to the creek line (which is being planted to native rainforest). The edges slope & I am created mini-terraces planted to sub-tropical tubers (ginger, galangal, cassava & jerusalem artichokes) as a living fence/windbreak. new lawn seed

To the left is the new wheat crop, to the right, new pasture grass seedlings emerge, with root crop beds at the far right. Towards the rear is the next slashed & grass seeded zone one month 4 weeks



The picture at right is the one month old wheat crop (late May). As the ground is still moist, I have not yet watered the new crop at all, including at planting. Meanwhile, I have prepared the next zone for oats to the left of the area in this photo & planted another section of wheat  3 x 10m between as a test for best sowing times for future reference. (1st & 2nd lunar quarter in May)  Below right

left wheat right oatsmay 25/201Above the grain growing area is the ‘crop circle’, now with an outer ring of wattle branches & up-rooted lantana. Late sunflowers, Oats & chickpeas have already been sown into this area & will soon also be planted with stone fruit, as this whole flat zone is liable to get frost at times. The crop circle (above right) is now being planted with a succession of winter vegetables, one segment per month. Note the ‘special’ wheat (from last years home-grown seed) to the top left of the photo. The milk carton cloches front left I now regard as indespensible to protect the new seedlings from wind, sun & insect exposure until their roots have established. So that’s the autumn planting, on to goat fencing preparations!


  1. solutions, inspirations, actions Leave a reply
  2. ecobuilding Leave a reply
  3. waste Leave a reply
  4. food Leave a reply
  5. water Leave a reply
  6. sustainable living Leave a reply
  7. star dome workshop Leave a reply
  8. Sustainable Alley Leave a reply
  9. where are we now? Leave a reply